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Finance

Home affordability calculator

Lenders do not ask what you want to spend. They apply two ratios to your income, and the smaller answer wins.

Affordable price
Enter your figures to see the breakdown.

The two ratios

Affordability is not a feeling, it is two fractions. Lenders compute both and lend against whichever gives the smaller number.

The calculator shows which one is binding for you. If the back-end is binding, paying down a car loan raises your budget directly. If the front-end is binding, clearing debts changes nothing and only a bigger deposit or a cheaper area helps.

Why the answer is a loan, not a price

The ratios cap a monthly payment. Turning that payment into a purchase price takes two steps: work out how much loan the payment supports at the given rate and term, then add your deposit. The loan step inverts the standard mortgage formula, solving for principal instead of payment.

This is why rate movements swing affordability so violently. At 3%, a payment of $2,000 a month over 30 years supports roughly $474,000 of loan. At 6.5%, the same $2,000 supports about $316,000 — a third less house for the same money, with no change in your income.

The costs that are easy to forget

The "tax, insurance and fees" field matters more than people expect, because it comes out of the same capped budget as the mortgage. Property tax alone can run from a few hundred a year to well over 2% of value annually depending on where you buy. Add buildings insurance, and service charges or HOA dues if the property has them.

If you put down less than 20%, most lenders add mortgage insurance, which belongs in that field too. Separately, budget for closing costs of roughly 2-5% of the price — those come out of your savings at completion, so money set aside for them is not available as deposit.

What the ratios do not know

They work from gross income, which means two households with identical salaries and very different tax positions get the same answer. They ignore childcare, which can rival a mortgage payment. They ignore how secure your income is, and they assume the rate you enter lasts the whole term — untrue for any variable or fixed-then-reverting product.

Treat the output as the ceiling a lender might allow, not a recommendation. Borrowing materially below it is how people keep the flexibility to absorb a rate rise or a broken boiler.

Common questions

What are the 28/36 rules?

Rules of thumb from conventional mortgage underwriting: housing costs no more than 28% of gross monthly income, and total debt payments no more than 36%. Both fields are editable here because real limits vary by lender and loan programme — some allow well above 43% back-end.

Should I use gross or net income?

Gross. Lenders underwrite against pre-tax income, so that is what the ratios expect. It does mean the limits look more generous than they feel, since your actual take-home is smaller.

Does a bigger deposit increase what I can borrow?

It does not increase the loan the ratios support, but it raises the price you can buy, because price equals loan plus deposit. Crossing 20% also usually removes mortgage insurance, which frees room inside the housing budget and indirectly does raise the loan.

Why does my bank offer me more than this?

Many lenders permit back-end ratios above 36% and count income this ignores. Being approved for a number is not evidence it is affordable — the ratios are a floor of prudence, not a target to reach.